More Roman than the Romans: The business of “Romanness”

Contrary to their Celtic brothers in the north, the tribes of southern Gaul were early Roman enthusiasts! Gaul is the name given by Julius Caesar to describe a large territory, now part of modern France.  Between 124 and 118 BC, the Roman legions invaded southern Gaul, i.e. the region bordering the Mediterranean, subsequently founding the Narbonese Province (Gallia Narbonensis).  The north of Gaul was conquered by Caesar’s legions in 58-50 BC allegedly the help of these “Romanized” southern Gauls.  Interestingly, some hundred years later, General Gnaeus Julius Agricola, a southern Gaul and a product of this enthusiastic Roman assimilation, finalized the conquest of Britain.  William the Conqueror was not the first “Frenchman” to invade Britain! The family of Roman emperor Antoninus Pius (138 CE- 161 CE) was also from southern Gaul (Nemausus, present day Nimes.)

The devoted Narbonese provincials were rewarded with the founding of beautiful cities and the building of impressive monuments.  Their assimilation was full-hearted and rapid.  The Gallo-Roman elite was quick to ditch its “barbarian” habits and adopt Roman customs, some more eagerly than others.  Gladiators’ fights were keenly watched, but this being Gaul, roman-style bathing was less popular.  Gallic beer, cervoise so prized by northern Gaul Asterix was replaced by imported Roman wine.  Soon enough, the Narbonese wine outperformed Italian vintages in quantity and quality. Now, the Languedoc is the world’s largest wine region. 

The thrifty Gallo-Romans took good care of their monuments, and, remarkably, many of the region’sancient buildings are so well-preserved that they are still being used in the 21^st century.  Today’s inhabitants are reaping the benefits of their ancestors’ loyalty.  Many Roman cities are listed as UNESCO World Heritage sites.  Roman heritage is the bread and butter of a region which has heavily invested in the restoration and maintenance of its Roman landmarks.  Not only are these landmarks tourist attractions, but some have returned to their original goal of popular entertainment. 

                                                        

                                                                                       Nimes' Arena

During the 1^st century BC, Emperor August doted on the city of Nemausus.  The city still hosts two beautifully preserved monuments: the Maison Carrée, a temple which was part the ancient forum, and the amphitheater.  The Coliseum of Rome was the most prestigious venue for chariot races and blood sports, whether gladiators’ fight or wild beast shows.  The smaller, albeit much better-preserved amphitheater of Nimes cannot compete with the Coliseum’s 5 million annual visitors, but it offers entertainments all year round for some 12.000 spectators.  Blood sports still take place: bullfights are staged twice a year and attract up to a million visitors.  Bullfights are also an import, but from Spain.  Major rock concerts, popular operas, sport contests and even bicycle races take place in the arena.  

Arles, Arelate in Latin, is 35 km south-east of Nimes.  The city also banks on its important Roman remains, the city has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1981.  Some 2 million tourists visited Arles in 2016 (source Calamêo).   The arenas of Arles and Nimes were fortified cities from the medieval period until the mid-19^th century, when they were emptied of their dwellings and restored.   Arles’ arena also organizes famous bullfights, courses camargaises (no spilled blood; the true star is the bull which gets top billings and obviously survives), re-enacted Roman parades, gladiators’ fights and local folklore shows.  Arles’ Roman theater was also built during the August’s period.  After the barbarian invasions, it was pilfered for its stones.  Now, it is back in business offering plays, music performances, traditional events and film festivals.

                                                                                Orange's Theater

However, Arles’ theater cannot compete with that of Orange (Latin Arausio) for splendor and entertainment power.  Orange is one of the best preserved of all Roman theaters, it has been rightly listed as an UNESCO World Heritage site (1981).  Its impressive three-story exterior façade has been preserved, so has its large half-moon marble orchestra pit.  The theater closed when Orange became Christian in the 4^th century AC; it was then abandoned, left as an open-air quarry, and many of its stone steps were removed.  Apparently, the theater was occasionally used for religious performances during the Middle Age and the Renaissance and again during the early 19^th century when it was partially repaired for theatrical performance.  The steps of the grandstand have been restored to seat some 8000 spectators.  The theater’s artistic revival took place in 1869, when grand operas were staged.  The Chorégies d’Orange are a summer festival which offers popular operas (have to be to fill these 8000 seats!); it attracts opera lovers from all over the world.  Verdi’s operas are particularly suitable for Orange, and famous opera singers have sung in spite of the fierce Mistral wind.  In 1990, tenor Luciano Pavarotti sang in Orange to a full house.  Pavarotti was a fan of Roman venues, before Orange, he had sung in the Caracalla Baths in Rome with his buddy tenors Placido Domingo and José Carreras.

It is hard to put a money figure on the business of neo-Roman entertainment and tourism.  But the stony landmarks attract more and more fans.  Two weeks ago, Ridley Scott’s epic film Gladiator (2000) was featured as part of the Peplum festival in Arles’ Roman theater.  The theater was full of spectators fascinated to watch bloody gladiators’ fights when seating on Roman stones the age of the characters of the film.  Interestingly, Scott’s film portraits the struggle between fictitious General Maximus and evil Emperor Commodus.  In the film, Maximus becomes a successful gladiator who eventually kills gladiator-infatuated Commodus in the Coliseum.  Commodus was actually murdered by a gladiator, however not in the circus but in his bed (or bath?))  For many historians, the reign of Commodus is regarded at the beginning of the decline of the Roman Empire.  Fortunately, the buildings erected by the emperors have acquired a life of their own.