VISITING ARMENIA

Since coming back from a week-long visit to Armenia in September, I have been pondering whether to write a blog on this trip.  I was attracted by the country’s volcanic geology and its medieval monasteries, which may not be exciting blog material.  I have always found it challenging to share my love of old stones with my friends.  The former Soviet Republic of Armenia is a tiny country, the size of Belgium, and the majority of Armenians live outside the country.  With the likes of Kardashian, Kevorkian, Kerkorian, Agassi (Agassian), Aznavour, Ara Malikian, Sarkisian (aka Cher), and Ohanian (Serena Williams’ future husband) to name a few, the Armenian diaspora is more attention-grabbing than the country itself.  Moreover, Armenia is no longer an exotic and backwater Caucasian destination, as over one million visitors flock to its landmarks and this number keeps growing. 

Last week, I discovered Cosmo Jarvis, real name Harrison Cosmo Krikoryan Jarvis in the English film Lady Macbeth.  Jarvis rekindled my blog-writing interest.  He is not yet a member of the Armenian hall of fame, but based on his acting performance in the film, he will certainly get there.  Musician, singer, song-writer and actor, Jarvis who is unconventionally attractive looking, made a strong impression as the rogue, sexy, truculent farmhand and sex interest of the passionate and scheming Lady Macbeth.  Jarvis’ Armenian blood is no indication that he ever visited Armenia or was among the 1400 participants of the 6^th Armenia-Diaspora conference which took place during my stay.

                                                                     Tatev Monastic Complex

Armenia’s population is about 3.25 million, on the other hand the Armenian diaspora is said to be 10 million strong.  It is renowned for its very prominent people.  Most of the Diaspora members have no family link to the Republic as their forebears, mainly Genocide survivors, came from Turkey.  The 1915 mass killing of up to 1.5 million Christian Armenians in the hands of the Ottoman Turks is regarded as the first genocide of the 20th century.  Obviously, the Turkish government doesn’t agree with this definition and regards the Ottoman Armenians as members of a pro-Russian Fifth Column which had to be crushed.  During WWI, Turkey was Germany and Austria’s ally.  Until the mid-20^th century, historic Armenia was six times larger than modern Armenia. 

Land-locked Armenia needs the support of the diaspora for its national security and economic survival.  The country has set up a special ministry to influence the diaspora.  The tiny country has few friends in the region and its existence is challenged by two of its neighbors, Turkey and Azerbaijan.  As a result, the Armenians have developed a siege mentality, and are obstinate and opposed to any negotiated solution of their border quagmire.  Our two guides were militant nationalists on a brain-washing mission.  I referred to the head guide as la Passionaria; the information provided was often politically biased and back fired as most of us were already sympathetic to Armenia’s predicaments.   

Armenia has many cultural assets: it has four UNESCO World Heritage sites and is the cradle of the Christian civilization.  Since 301 AD, thousands of monasteries and churches have been built which attract both tourists and the faithful.  For good measure, another place of worship is being built, not by Christians, but by Yazidis.  The Armenian Yazidis are the largest minority, second only to that found in Syria.  They are in the process of building an impressive temple modeled after local Christian churches.  Armenia also has the world’s oldest winery.  To maximize its tourism revenues, the country has built many glitzy casinos in Yerevan, the capital.   They mainly cater to regional gamblers who can travel to Armenia, namely Russians and Iranians.  The later account for 30% of all tourists visiting Armenia. 

                                                                           Yazidis Temple Project

I was fascinated by Armenia’s harsh volcanic landscape and charmed by its old churches and monasteries; in a week, we visited twenty of them.  In the countryside, I was also shocked by the detritus of the Soviet industry which strongly contrasts with the Western elegance of Yerevan.  Armenia may be at the cross road of civilization, but it has some tough decisions to make to protect its identity and existence.  It indeed needs friends.

                                                         Mount Ararat and Khor Virap Monastery